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3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid Stable Vitamin C Derivative for Skincare

3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid​ is a new-generation vitamin C derivative developed to provide stable antioxidant and skin-brightening benefits in cosmetic formulations.

Product Overview

3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid is a new-generation vitamin C derivative developed to provide stable antioxidant and skin-brightening benefits in cosmetic formulations. Also known as a stable vitamin C derivative, it is produced by ethylating the hydroxyl group at the 3-position of the vitamin C molecule. This structural modification improves stability while maintaining the functional advantages associated with vitamin C.

With excellent resistance to oxidation, light, heat, acids, alkalis, salts, and air exposure, 3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid helps overcome common formulation challenges associated with conventional vitamin C, including oxidation, discoloration, and limited formulation stability.

Product Name: 3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid
CAS No.: 86404-04-8
Appearance: White crystal/powder
Molecular Formula: C8H12O6
Molecular Weight: 204.18

Excellent Stability for Cosmetic Formulations

Stability is one of the key advantages of 3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid. In a 60°C aqueous solution for six weeks, its reported retention rate reaches 95.5%, significantly higher than conventional vitamin C under the same conditions. Its strong resistance to environmental and formulation factors also helps reduce discoloration and supports longer product stability.

This makes it suitable for cosmetic manufacturers seeking a vitamin C ingredient that can withstand a wider range of processing and storage conditions.

Amphiphilic Structure and Skin Penetration

The ethyl modification gives 3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid amphiphilic characteristics, combining hydrophilic and lipophilic properties. This structure helps maintain compatibility with aqueous formulations while improving lipid solubility compared with conventional vitamin C.

Its reported transdermal penetration rate is approximately 58%, supporting delivery through the stratum corneum and allowing the ingredient to reach deeper skin layers where it can exert its intended cosmetic benefits.

Gentle and Formulation-Friendly

Compared with pure vitamin C, 3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid is designed to offer a gentler profile for topical skincare formulations. It is compatible with a pH range of 4.0–6.0, which is well suited to many facial skincare products and helps formulators balance efficacy, stability, and skin compatibility.

Its formulation flexibility makes it suitable for products designed for regular brightening and antioxidant care.

Recommended Formulation Guide

For regular cosmetic applications, the recommended addition level is 0.5%–2%. Higher-concentration formulations may use approximately 3%–5%, depending on the product concept and formulation requirements.

For better stability, add 3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid to the formulation below 40°C and maintain the pH between 4.0 and 6.0. Adding approximately 0.2% sodium citrate is also recommended as a stabilizing measure.

3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid can be formulated with ingredients such as niacinamide, arbutin, and hyaluronic acid to develop multifunctional skincare products focused on brightening, hydration, antioxidant protection, and skin conditioning.

Suitable Cosmetic Applications

Its stability and formulation versatility make 3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid suitable for a broad range of topical products, including whitening serums, lotions, creams, gels, facial masks, sunscreens, and after-sun care products.

High-concentration serums can use it in intensive brightening formulas, while lotions and creams can incorporate it into daily skincare routines. It can also be used in gels and masks where a lightweight texture and efficient ingredient delivery are required.

A Reliable Choice for Vitamin C Skincare Innovation

As cosmetic brands continue to seek stable alternatives to conventional vitamin C, 3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid provides a combination of stability, skin penetration, formulation flexibility, and antioxidant and brightening functionality. Its technical characteristics make it a practical ingredient for developing next-generation skincare products with consistent quality and long-term formulation performance.

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