Cas No.: 86404-04-8 3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid

Product Overview

3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid (CAS No 86404-04-8) is a next-generation, highly stable vitamin C derivative formed through ethylation at the 3-O position of the ascorbic acid molecule. This structural modification significantly enhances stability and skin permeability while overcoming the common limitations of traditional vitamin C, such as rapid oxidation, discoloration, and low bioavailability.

Recognized as one of the rising high-performance cosmetic actives, it delivers a dual-action effect of skin brightening and antioxidant protection, making it a preferred ingredient in modern skincare formulations.

Key Advantages

Exceptional stability performance

3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid demonstrates outstanding stability under harsh conditions. In a 60°C aqueous environment over 6 weeks, it maintains a retention rate of up to 95.5%, far outperforming pure vitamin C (<0.01%) and many conventional derivatives.

It is highly resistant to light, heat, pH variation, salts, and oxidative exposure, ensuring improved formulation longevity and reduced discoloration risk in finished products.

Amphiphilic skin penetration system

With both hydrophilic and lipophilic properties, this ingredient offers enhanced dermal delivery capability. The ethyl modification improves lipid solubility while preserving water solubility, enabling efficient passage through the stratum corneum.

Its transdermal absorption rate reaches approximately 58%, allowing active delivery into deeper skin layers where it can more effectively support collagen synthesis and antioxidant activity.

Gentle and skin-friendly profile

Compared with traditional ascorbic acid, this derivative is significantly milder and suitable for sensitive skin formulations. It supports a broad pH compatibility range from 4.0 to 6.0, closely matching the skin’s natural environment and minimizing irritation potential.

Application Guide

Recommended usage levels

• Standard formulations: 0.5% – 2%

• High-performance whitening systems: up to 3% – 5%

Formulation recommendations

To ensure optimal performance and stability:

• Add at temperatures below 40°C

• Maintain system pH between 4.0 and 6.0

• Recommended stabilizer: 0.2% sodium citrate

• Compatible with niacinamide, arbutin, hyaluronic acid, and other brightening or hydrating actives for synergistic effects

Suitable product formats

• Whitening serums for intensive skin brightening and repair

• Creams and lotions for long-lasting hydration and tone improvement

• Gel masks for rapid absorption and instant radiance boost

• Sunscreen and after-sun care products for antioxidant and anti-inflammatory support

Market Outlook

Industry trend reports indicate that demand for niacinamide is approaching saturation, while interest in 3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid continues to grow steadily. Usage and product adoption have increased by nearly 20% in recent years.

According to QYResearch, the global cosmetic-grade market for 3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid was valued at approximately USD 39 million in 2024 and is projected to reach USD 55 million by 2031, with a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 5.3%.

Conclusion

Cas No 86404-04-8 3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid delivers a powerful combination of stability, bioavailability, and skin compatibility. It provides a modern solution for formulators seeking effective vitamin C performance without the drawbacks of traditional ascorbic acid, supporting innovation in whitening, antioxidant, and anti-aging skincare products.